Chevron Cutting Board
With a bit of short notice, I was invited to join in with many other YouTube woodworking friends in a challenge. The challenge was to make a video building some sort of kitchen utensil and post the video today. Below is my video of a Chevron cutting board that I made. I hope you enjoy watching it as much as I enjoyed making it. Below the video is a written blog of the process.
We challenge you to build something kitchen related and use the hashtag #Utensil2015 in Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, YouTube, or whatever social media.
I started with rough lumber, so I had to flatten one side and square up another edge first.
Then I moved flattened all of my boards to the same thickness on the planer.
The cherry I used was 4/4 stock, so it was thinner than the 8/4 spalted maple, ash and walnut. So I used the table saw to cut it to be the thickness of the rest of the woods in the board.
I then proceeded on the first glue-up making an even pattern of ash, walnut, cherry, with the spalted maple in the center.
Even though the parallel clamps provide great even clamping pressure, it’s important to provide opposing clamps so the glue-up stays flat while it dries.
Once out of the clamps, I cleaned up the glue squeeze out and sent the board through the planer to even it back out.
Then back at the table saw, I used my miter gauge to cut off a 15 degree section off of one end of the board.
I then referenced from this new edge with my fence and cut 2 1/2″ strips.
The table saw didn’t leave a glue-ready edge. Normally, you would not ever want to bring end-grain to the jointer… However, with the angle these are cut, and by taking an extremely light pass, I’ve experienced this to make a very clean cut.
And now for the next glue-up.
This one is a bit tedious. I had to make sure it all lined up perfectly.
After the glue dried, I cleaned up the squeeze out and another trip through the planer.
I used my crosscut sled to trim one of the jagged edges square.
And then used the fence to cut the other side.
I then put a round-over on all the edges on the router table.
Did lots and lots of sanding… I have a routine for my cutting boards that goes a bit further than most. I go through the following grits to start: 80, 120, 150,220, 320. Then I wet the cutting board with a spray bottle and let it dry. This raises the fibers and makes it feel a little “hairy.” After that I sand again with 320 and move on to 400. It provides an excellent finish that people recognize.
I then let the board soak in a bath of mineral oil for about twenty minutes.
During that time, I turn on my wax heater. This heater has a mix of mineral oil and beeswax that I make. It can be applied at room temperature, but I find that by heating it and applying it melted, it gets deeper in the fibers of the wood.